New York Times

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The best food is often found in unremarkable, even divelike places. Although Grandpa Iskender has the historical corner on the döner kebap recipe, this place has perfected it. Located in two narrow storefronts near the old bus terminal, the Uludag Kebapçisi is arguably the best place in the world to eat the Iskender döner kebap. You can order it with decadent slices of steak (bonfile), surprisingly delicious kidney (böbrek), or what the owner called "back" (kantifile) -- but don't complain to me if your cholesterol levels shoot through the roof: Uludag goes through 18 kilos (40 lb.) of butter per day. Throw caution to the wind, and top it all off with the sütlü helva, a heavenly milk pudding served mainly in the cooler months.